17 February, 2012

Constructive waves & Destructive waves ~ :D
was wondering what was spilling and plunging breakers so here it is ...
Spilling breakers: When the ocean floor has a gradual slope, the wave will steepen until the crest becomes unstable, resulting in turbulent whitewater spilling down the face of the wave. This continues as the wave approaches the shore, and the wave's energy is slowly dissipated in the whitewater. Because of this, spilling waves break for a longer time than other waves, and create a relatively gentle wave. Onshore wind conditions make spillers more likely. pic http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/navy/docs/swos/cmd/xpd/SP6-2-8/sld009.htm
Plunging breakers: A plunging wave occurs when the ocean floor is steep or has sudden depth changes, such as from a reef or sandbar. The crest of the wave becomes much steeper than a spilling wave, becomes vertical, then curls over and drops onto the trough of the wave, releasing most of its energy at once in a relatively violent impact. A plunging wave breaks with more energy than a significantly larger spilling wave. The wave can trap and compress the air under the lip, which creates the "crashing" sound associated with waves. With large waves, this crash can be felt by beachgoers on land. Offshore wind conditions can make plungers more likely. pic http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/navy/docs/swos/cmd/xpd/SP6-2-8/sld010.htm
(c) fas.org & http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaking_wave
:D

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